碎片手记-一个能待很久的地方

碎片手记-一个能待很久的地方

一个能待很久的地方

我们在做筹备工作时，听说有个位于滇藏交界处，怒江大峡谷最北端的村子——秋那桶，被评为“中国最美村落”之一，查阅资料后更加憧憬，这一站在行程之初便被注入了满满期待。‍‍

往香格里拉西北方向骑，快到云南和西藏的交界地了，这天一直在下雨，天色一点点变得昏暗，脚下泥泞和山上碎石开始有节奏地交织起来，狂风过后，便是瓢泼大雨。

按照导航显示，前方路段已经严重拥堵，为了尽早并安全地抵达目的地，我们跟随当地向导选择了另一条盘山公路，道路很窄很难走，大家一路默念对面不要遇到交会的车辆，此愿成真，却迎来两侧悠闲盘桓着的成群牛羊🐂🐑🐂🐑

不知开了多久，远远地看到山间亮起了灯火。

狂风阵雨过后，星光干净地倾泻下来。到达秋那桶时，已经凌晨一点多了。

第二天醒来推开窗子，浓浓的雾霭下长出了一片充满人气的绿意，像走入了爱丽丝梦游仙境。虫鸣、鸟叫、潺潺水声和自然苏醒的声音像被装在一个清透的容器里，一切感官都被放大了。这时候手机铃声响起，才发现是那么聒噪，原来在繁忙城市的背景音之下，每种声音不得不提高分贝，提高音量去说话，提高音量以防被忘记。

这次采访的主人公是一对“篮球兄弟”，考虑到他们要上学，所以拍摄时间尽量是以小哥俩的档期为主。一开始，导演跟小哥俩对话时，他们的话很少，总是采取“对谈三部曲”——1/不回答、2/不做声、3/跟大壮玩。以至于导演苦恼“一直都是我在输出，为什么不跟我聊天呢”。

后来慢慢熟了，小哥俩还带着导演去了他们的秘密基地，秘密基地背后似乎还藏着另一个秘密。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

导演：今天前面问你们有没有什么秘密基地的时候，在妈妈看着的时候，你们说没有。其实你们是有的，对吧？你爸妈知道刚刚带我们去的这个地方吗?

哥哥：他们不知道。

导演：不知道，没在那里被抓到过?

哥哥：没被抓到过。‍

导演随笔：这是我们第二次见面，哥哥弟弟带我去他们的秘密基地，因为连夜的雨水把进入基地的独木桥冲垮了，我们没能找到这个地方，有些秘密终究成了秘密，就像年轻时候的梦想也许不太会跟父母去表达，但它真实的存在过，也影响着我们，也许这就是所谓梦想。

导演白天跟小哥俩一起打篮球、教哥哥弟弟运球、与哥俩一起画篮球线，感慨道：“和孩子们打篮球的时候，有一瞬间像回到了我的小时候，放学时把书包放在一旁，跟认识的、不相识的男孩子一起，只要看见篮球和篮框就可以随时开始一场比赛。当时希望永远不要天黑，这样就可以一直打下去，现在打篮球的男孩子还在追着球，突然一看我已经长大了。”

导演随笔：大人们见到小孩通常会问他们以后想做什么职业，然后送上几句过来人的经验之谈，但我不是过来人，我是他们的球友。

因为打架被父母教导也许是兄弟俩生活中的规则，为球场画上篮球线就是游戏中的规则。当我们开始学习一项运动，首先要从游戏规则开始，就像人进入社会时也就意味着要遵循它的规则，经过层层选拔，明白什么可以，什么是违规的。

进入游戏，先从了解游戏规则开始，也许这是我能为他们做的。

而夜晚的篮球场就成了一行人的办公场所，大家顶着漫天的星斗抱着资料复盘开会。先是见到一位两位工作人员陆续从房间里出来，各自敷着面膜；几分钟后，导演趿着拖鞋信步走来，同样敷着面膜；最后就连身材健硕，皮肤像熔岩一样黝黑的摄像大哥也顶着一张面膜走出房门，远处他那深邃壮硕的身影没在暗夜里，只剩面部一团晶莹洁白的光向前行进。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

住在民宿的几天里，吃到最好吃的就是蛋炒饭（加蛋加辣为导演的私域配方），后面每到一家饭馆，导演都会请小馆以此秘籍炒上一盘，以至于后面不用导演提及，懂事的场务老师已将豪华版蛋炒饭+小炒牛肉+辣子鸡这一套为导演安排走起。

离开秋那桶的清晨同样涂抹着一层浓雾，像海潮般辽阔而潋滟。与兄弟俩告别、与大壮告别、也好像从另一个角度窥见了童年的自己。这里是导演从进来、离开以及后面剪片时一直念念不忘的地方，“有一种磁场相合的舒服，可以住很久”。

时至今日，大壮也许还在每天“昂首挺胸”地视察着村落，这里好像是大家心中向往的生活，同样这个村子里也有关于他们的向往。

村子里的故事还在继续，太阳落在村外，我们也行走在路上。

English Translation

Director’s Notes – A Place to Stay for a Long Time

During our preparations, we heard about a village located at the junction of Yunnan and Xizang, at the northernmost end of the Nujiang Grand Canyon – Qiunatong, which was rated as one of the “most beautiful villages in China.” After checking the information, our anticipation for this stop at the beginning of the journey was even greater.

Riding northwest towards Shangri-La, we were almost at the border between Yunnan and Xizang. It had been raining all day, and the sky gradually darkened. Underfoot, the mud and loose stones began to intertwine rhythmically. After the strong winds passed, heavy rain poured down.

According to the navigation GPS, the road ahead was severely congested. In order to arrive at our destination as soon and safely as possible, we followed a local guide and chose another road on the mountain. The road was narrow and difficult to traverse. As we made our way, we silently hoped not to encounter any other vehicles coming from the opposite direction. Our wish came true, but instead, we were greeted by herds of leisurely grazing cattle and sheep on both sides.

After driving for who knows how long, we saw lights shining in the mountains from afar.

After the stormy weather passed, the starlight poured down cleanly. By the time we arrived at Qiunatong, it was already well past one in the morning.

The next day, when I opened the window, a thick mist had enveloped the whole surroundings, and lush greenery had sprouted, full of vitality. It felt like stepping into Alice’s Wonderland. The chirping of insects, the singing of birds, the gurgling of water, and the sounds of nature awakening were all magnified, as if all came from a clear translucent container. At that moment, the ringing of the phone seemed so noisy; it turned out that beneath the background noise of the bustling city, every sound had to be raised in volume to be heard, to ensure it wasn’t forgotten.

The subjects of this interview were a pair of “basketball brothers.” Considering that they had to go to school, the filming schedule was mainly based on their availability. At first, when the director talked to the brothers, they spoke very little and often engaged in a “three-act conversation” – 1/silence, 2/no response, 3/playing with Dazhuang the dog. As a result, the director lamented, “I’ve always been the only one talking; why don’t they chat with me?”

As they gradually became familiar, the brothers took the director to their secret base. Behind this secret base seemed to be another secret.

Director: When I asked you if you had a secret base earlier, you said no when your mom was watching. But you actually do, right? Do your parents know about the place we just went to?

Older Brother: They don’t.

Director: They don’t know? You’ve never been caught there?

Older Brother: Never been caught.

Director’s Note: This was our second meeting, and the brothers took me to their secret base. However, due to the overnight pouring rain, the makeshift bridge leading to the base was washed away, and we couldn’t find the place. Some secrets ultimately remain secrets, just like dreams when we were young, you may never tell your parents, but they do exist, and continue to influence us. Perhaps this is what is called a dream.

During the day, the director played basketball with the brothers, taught them dribbling, and drew a half basketball court with them. He sighed, “When I play basketball with the kids, for a moment, it feels like I’ve gone back to my childhood. After school, I would put my school bag aside and play with other boys, whether I knew them or not. As long as there was a basketball and a hoop, we could start a game anytime. I used to hope it would never get dark so we could keep playing. Now, these two boys who are still chasing the ball, but suddenly I realize I’ve grown up.”

Director’s Note: Adults usually ask children what they want to do when they grow up and then offer some experienced advice. But I’m not experienced; I’m just their basketball buddy.

Perhaps their fight often gets disciplined by parents, it becomes a rule in the brothers’ lives, and drawing basketball lines on the court is a rule in the ball game. When we start learning a sport, we first need to start with the rules of the game, just as entering society means following its rules. After layers and layers of selection, we understand what is allowed and what is not.

Playing the game begins with understanding the rules. Perhaps that’s what I can do for them.

At night, the basketball court became an office for the whole group, under the starry sky, reviewing documents. First, one or two staff members emerged from their rooms, each wearing a facial mask. A few minutes later, the director strolled over in his slippers, also wearing a facial mask. Finally, even the sturdy cameraman, with skin as dark as lava, emerged from his room wearing a facial mask. In the distance, his deep and robust figure disappeared into the dark night, leaving only his face shining white forward.

During the days spent in the guesthouse, the best meal we ate was egg fried rice (with extra egg and spicy pepper, the director’s secret recipe). Every time we went to a restaurant afterward, the director would ask the chef to make a plate using this secret recipe. Eventually, without the director even mentioning it, the thoughtful production assistant automatically arranged for the director to have deluxe egg fried rice, stir-fried beef, and spicy chicken.

We left Qiunatong in the early morning, also shrouded in thick fog, vast and misty like the tide. Saying goodbye to the brothers, saying goodbye to Dazhuang the dog, seemed to glimpse another perspective of our childhood selves. This place was always on the director’s mind, from the moment he arrived until he left and even during the editing process. “There’s a comfortable sense of magnetic resonance here, where I could stay for a long time.”

To this day, Dazhuang may still be proudly inspecting the village every day; it seemed to be the life everyone yearned for, and within this village they have their aspirations.

The stories in the village continue, as the sun sets outside the village, and we continue go forward on the road.